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Copyright 2003 08 Urban Maille Inc

Byzantine Watch Kit Kit Contents 18g 3 5mm sterling rings 18g 5 0mm sterling rings 20g 2 0mm sterling rings sterling box clasp handmade watchhead w pins optional spring bar tool Tools Required 2 pair smooth jawed jewelers pliers Experience Required Byzantine This Apprentice Project Kit contains everything needed to complete the project but this kit does not teach the weave listed as Experience Required If you don t know the required weave you will not be able to complete this kit until you ve learned it You ll find a kit that teaches it among our Beginning Weaves We hope you enjoy this project kit and will look for others on our website urbanmaille com 1 URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS Byzantine Watch Kit Use and Limitations It s often difficult to know exactly what rights are granted with instruction of any sort so we include this section in an effort to clarify our policies Our Weave Kits Beginning Intermediate and Advanced teach chainmaille patterns many of them ancient that are not of our own design and reside in the public domain If you learn a weave from one of our Weave Kits and then wish to teach that weave you have every right to do so as long as you use your own photos or renderings and your own wording in the instructions Using our instructions even if you retype them and change some of the words is a violation of copyright and other intellectual property rights Some of our Project Kits Apprentice Journeyman and Master are simple variations of standard weaves and the same rules apply as described above Those marked as Urban Maille Exclusives however are our own copyrighted designs and do not reside in the public domain If you have purchased a kit you are granted the right to make and sell the piece as many times as you like but we reserve the right to teach those designs ourselves Because they are unique designs and we don t grant permission to teach them sharing or publishing ring sizes and other particulars privately or publicly or teaching them even with photos or renderings and instructions you ve prepared yourself is expressly prohibited and constitutes a violation of Urban Maille s copyrights and other intellectual property rights This kit is an Urban Maille Exclusive URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 10

Byzantine Watch Kit Byzantine Watch Kit Rings per Segment Segment Width Chain Width 12g 7 0mm 12 15mm 29mm 12g 10 0mm 2 1 Decide on the planned length of the finished watch then subtract two inches from that figure for the combined length of the watchhead and clasp 14g 5 5mm 12 13 5mm 25mm 14g 8 0mm 2 Multiply the remaining length in inches by two and that will be the number of individual byzantine segments you ll need to make 16g 4 5mm 12 12 5mm 20mm 16g 6 5mm 2 For example If your total watch length is to be 7 5 inches subtract 2 inches leaving 5 5 inches Multiply that remaining figure by two and you ll find that you need to make eleven byzantine segments 18g 3 5mm 12 11mm 14 5mm 18g 5 0mm 2 20g 2 75mm 12 20g 4 0mm 2 22g 2 25mm 12 22g 3 0mm 2 10 25mm 11mm 9 75mm 4mm Chain Width refers to the width of the finished chain Segment Width refers to the width of each byzantine segment Divide the desired length of the chain by the Segment Width to determine the number of segments the chain will require Then multiply the number of segments you need by the number of Rings per Segment to determine how many rings you ll need in each size This means that the figure is calculated or estimated Although expected to be accurate these figures have not yet been tested so results are not guaranteed 9 Making the Watch Ring Size URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS Making the Byzantine Segments There are two different ways to make your byzantine segments Method A is the same way you d weave a continuous length of byzantine chain It s a bit slower for segments but it s familiar and you might prefer to make them in the way that s already comfortable Method B can only be used for weaving individual byzantine segments as you ll be making here It s faster for making segments but it s probably unfamiliar and so will be slower at first Read both and choose the method you prefer before going on to Step 2 Method A Make your byzantine segments from 18g 3 5mm rings but use 18g 5 0mm rings for the center In other words begin the segment with a 2 2 2 chain of 18g 3 5mm rings Fold back the rings as usual then lock them in place with two of the 18g 5 0mm rings Use 18g 3 5mm rings to complete the segment URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 2

Byzantine Watch Kit Byzantine Watch Kit The following pattern represents one byzantine segment The small 2s are 18g 3 5mm rings and the large 2 symbolizes the 18g 5 0mm center rings Connect the other band to the opposite side of the clasp and congratulate yourself on the completion of your lovely new chainmaille watch 2 2 2 2 Fold 2 2 Fold 2 Method B 2 Make a 2 2 2 2 chain in which all the rings are 18g 3 5mm except the center pair which are 18g 5 0mm represented by the larger 2 It s easiest to do this if you begin by closing two 18g 5 0mm rings close four 18g 3 5mm rings and open eight 18g 3 5mm rings Pick up an open ring and scoop two of the closed 18g 3 5mm rings and both of the 18g 5 0mm rings onto it and close Add another open ring alongside the one you just closed so that you have this pattern 2 2 2 Pick up an open ring scoop the other two closed rings onto it and add it to the 18g 5 0mm rings in your small chain and close Add another open ring alongside the one you just closed and the result will be Polishing Your Watch Your watchhead won t benefit from being submerged in water so take precautions when you clean and polish it Of course tumble polishing is the best way If you aren t familiar with this method visit our website and read our Cleaning Polishing page under Info for all the details For tumble polishing remove the watchhead and thread a scrap wire silver or copper no base metal to contaminate your tumbler through the rings where the pins should be twist the ends of the scrap wire together leaving a lot of room for the rings to move and tumble polish the band and clasp If you don t yet have a tumbler you can use an old toothbrush and a paste of baking soda and water to gently scrub the band in the palm of your hand Rinse well and pat dry to avoid water spots You also have the option of using a jewelry polishing cloth if you prefer to shine just the high spots leaving the metal darker within the weave for an antiqued look Our Apprentice Project Kits 2 2 2 2 2 Make your usual byzantine fold at one end of that little chain and lock it down with two of the remaining open rings Turn the chain over make the same fold at the other end and lock it down with the last two open rings You now have one byzantine 3 URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 8

Byzantine Watch Kit Byzantine Watch Kit piece of fine wire through the rings alongside the pin to help hold them all together while you assemble the pieces This will also keep the small rings from flying across the room if that springy little pin slips As awkward as this feels the first time it gets much easier with practice and that practice will serve you well later on when you want to remove the band for tumble polishing segment as shown in this illustration 13 Once you have the pin in place congratulate yourself on the acquisition of that new skill admire your fine workmanship then attach the watchhead to the other band in the same way When that s done the hard part is finished and you re ready to complete your watch Yay Attaching the Clasp Put an open ring on the other end of the band as though to add another segment and then through the matching loop on the clasp Make sure the clasp is turned right side up The fit will be a little snug for the second ring so work it gently through the loop It helps if the ring isn t open any wider than necessary If the loops on the clasp seem too small for two rings which might be the case due to the natural variance in tolerances of handmade components don t be concerned one ring through each loop is strong enough to be perfectly secure Attach the second loop of the clasp in the same manner 7 URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 2 Using the method of your choice make the number of byzantine segments you need based on the calculations you made in Step 1 Connecting the Segments When your segments are made open not wide some 18g 3 5mm rings and lay them out on your work surface You ll need four for each segment you ve made plus sixteen more 3 Pick up a byzantine segment and separate the center rings at one end so they fan apart as shown in this illustration 4 Pick up an open ring with your pliers and insert it down through the two fanned out rings on one side of the segment as shown in the photo 5 Let the segment dangle from your pliers while you pick up another segment and fan apart its top two rings From below this time insert the open ring through the two rings in the same position on the new segment as shown in the photo to the right Note the arrow in the photo indicating the position of the end of the open ring as it enters the first of those two rings Close that ring and put a second open ring alongside the one URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 4

Byzantine Watch Kit you just closed so the segment ends are connected by two 18g 3 5mm rings side by side Note that all the rings in this project are paired 6 Turn the joined segments upside down and connect the other ends in exactly the same way Always enter the first segment between the fanned out rings and enter the same rings on the second segment from beneath These illustrations show the joined segments from different angles 7 Connect a third segment to the two you ve already joined returning to Step 3 to refresh yourself on the directions if needed When you ve done so your watchband should look like this illustration 8 Continue to join your segments in this way until the length is sufficient to go almost from the middle top of the wrist to the middle bottom of the wrist When it s that long set it aside and begin assembling the other side of the band in exactly the same manner as the first One side of the band will probably need to be longer than the other for the watch to fit properly as you ll see when you shape it to your 5 URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS Byzantine Watch Kit wrist 9 Add two pair of rings at one end of each band as though you were going to connect another segment and close them Put two additional pair of rings through those so that one end of each band looks like the last illustration Set the bands aside Attaching the Watchhead 10 Close 18 tiny rings 24 if attaching the Desert Glow watchhead as perfectly as you possibly can Lay each one inside the jaws of your pliers and lightly squeeze it to make sure it s flat Set them aside in two equal piles 11 Pick up one of the watch pins and the spring bar tool and put the pin in the watch for practice to see how it works Try to get good at that because it s harder to do when the pin is full of rings Remove the pin when you ve finished practicing 12 This is the tricky part Put a watch pin through the two dangling rings on one side of one band then put nine tiny rings on the pin twelve for the Desert Glow then the other two dangling rings from the band The pin will be very full Insert the pin into the watchhead using the forked tip of the spring bar tool or the tips of your chainnose pliers This isn t easy to do so breathe deeply stay calm and gently work with it until you get it in place You might find it helpful to thread a thin string such as dental floss or a URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 6

Byzantine Watch Kit you just closed so the segment ends are connected by two 18g 3 5mm rings side by side Note that all the rings in this project are paired 6 Turn the joined segments upside down and connect the other ends in exactly the same way Always enter the first segment between the fanned out rings and enter the same rings on the second segment from beneath These illustrations show the joined segments from different angles 7 Connect a third segment to the two you ve already joined returning to Step 3 to refresh yourself on the directions if needed When you ve done so your watchband should look like this illustration 8 Continue to join your segments in this way until the length is sufficient to go almost from the middle top of the wrist to the middle bottom of the wrist When it s that long set it aside and begin assembling the other side of the band in exactly the same manner as the first One side of the band will probably need to be longer than the other for the watch to fit properly as you ll see when you shape it to your 5 URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS Byzantine Watch Kit wrist 9 Add two pair of rings at one end of each band as though you were going to connect another segment and close them Put two additional pair of rings through those so that one end of each band looks like the last illustration Set the bands aside Attaching the Watchhead 10 Close 18 tiny rings 24 if attaching the Desert Glow watchhead as perfectly as you possibly can Lay each one inside the jaws of your pliers and lightly squeeze it to make sure it s flat Set them aside in two equal piles 11 Pick up one of the watch pins and the spring bar tool and put the pin in the watch for practice to see how it works Try to get good at that because it s harder to do when the pin is full of rings Remove the pin when you ve finished practicing 12 This is the tricky part Put a watch pin through the two dangling rings on one side of one band then put nine tiny rings on the pin twelve for the Desert Glow then the other two dangling rings from the band The pin will be very full Insert the pin into the watchhead using the forked tip of the spring bar tool or the tips of your chainnose pliers This isn t easy to do so breathe deeply stay calm and gently work with it until you get it in place You might find it helpful to thread a thin string such as dental floss or a URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 6

Byzantine Watch Kit Byzantine Watch Kit piece of fine wire through the rings alongside the pin to help hold them all together while you assemble the pieces This will also keep the small rings from flying across the room if that springy little pin slips As awkward as this feels the first time it gets much easier with practice and that practice will serve you well later on when you want to remove the band for tumble polishing segment as shown in this illustration 13 Once you have the pin in place congratulate yourself on the acquisition of that new skill admire your fine workmanship then attach the watchhead to the other band in the same way When that s done the hard part is finished and you re ready to complete your watch Yay Attaching the Clasp Put an open ring on the other end of the band as though to add another segment and then through the matching loop on the clasp Make sure the clasp is turned right side up The fit will be a little snug for the second ring so work it gently through the loop It helps if the ring isn t open any wider than necessary If the loops on the clasp seem too small for two rings which might be the case due to the natural variance in tolerances of handmade components don t be concerned one ring through each loop is strong enough to be perfectly secure Attach the second loop of the clasp in the same manner 7 URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 2 Using the method of your choice make the number of byzantine segments you need based on the calculations you made in Step 1 Connecting the Segments When your segments are made open not wide some 18g 3 5mm rings and lay them out on your work surface You ll need four for each segment you ve made plus sixteen more 3 Pick up a byzantine segment and separate the center rings at one end so they fan apart as shown in this illustration 4 Pick up an open ring with your pliers and insert it down through the two fanned out rings on one side of the segment as shown in the photo 5 Let the segment dangle from your pliers while you pick up another segment and fan apart its top two rings From below this time insert the open ring through the two rings in the same position on the new segment as shown in the photo to the right Note the arrow in the photo indicating the position of the end of the open ring as it enters the first of those two rings Close that ring and put a second open ring alongside the one URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 4

Byzantine Watch Kit Byzantine Watch Kit The following pattern represents one byzantine segment The small 2s are 18g 3 5mm rings and the large 2 symbolizes the 18g 5 0mm center rings Connect the other band to the opposite side of the clasp and congratulate yourself on the completion of your lovely new chainmaille watch 2 2 2 2 Fold 2 2 Fold 2 Method B 2 Make a 2 2 2 2 chain in which all the rings are 18g 3 5mm except the center pair which are 18g 5 0mm represented by the larger 2 It s easiest to do this if you begin by closing two 18g 5 0mm rings close four 18g 3 5mm rings and open eight 18g 3 5mm rings Pick up an open ring and scoop two of the closed 18g 3 5mm rings and both of the 18g 5 0mm rings onto it and close Add another open ring alongside the one you just closed so that you have this pattern 2 2 2 Pick up an open ring scoop the other two closed rings onto it and add it to the 18g 5 0mm rings in your small chain and close Add another open ring alongside the one you just closed and the result will be Polishing Your Watch Your watchhead won t benefit from being submerged in water so take precautions when you clean and polish it Of course tumble polishing is the best way If you aren t familiar with this method visit our website and read our Cleaning Polishing page under Info for all the details For tumble polishing remove the watchhead and thread a scrap wire silver or copper no base metal to contaminate your tumbler through the rings where the pins should be twist the ends of the scrap wire together leaving a lot of room for the rings to move and tumble polish the band and clasp If you don t yet have a tumbler you can use an old toothbrush and a paste of baking soda and water to gently scrub the band in the palm of your hand Rinse well and pat dry to avoid water spots You also have the option of using a jewelry polishing cloth if you prefer to shine just the high spots leaving the metal darker within the weave for an antiqued look Our Apprentice Project Kits 2 2 2 2 2 Make your usual byzantine fold at one end of that little chain and lock it down with two of the remaining open rings Turn the chain over make the same fold at the other end and lock it down with the last two open rings You now have one byzantine 3 URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 8

Byzantine Watch Kit Byzantine Watch Kit Rings per Segment Segment Width Chain Width 12g 7 0mm 12 15mm 29mm 12g 10 0mm 2 1 Decide on the planned length of the finished watch then subtract two inches from that figure for the combined length of the watchhead and clasp 14g 5 5mm 12 13 5mm 25mm 14g 8 0mm 2 Multiply the remaining length in inches by two and that will be the number of individual byzantine segments you ll need to make 16g 4 5mm 12 12 5mm 20mm 16g 6 5mm 2 For example If your total watch length is to be 7 5 inches subtract 2 inches leaving 5 5 inches Multiply that remaining figure by two and you ll find that you need to make eleven byzantine segments 18g 3 5mm 12 11mm 14 5mm 18g 5 0mm 2 20g 2 75mm 12 20g 4 0mm 2 22g 2 25mm 12 22g 3 0mm 2 10 25mm 11mm 9 75mm 4mm Chain Width refers to the width of the finished chain Segment Width refers to the width of each byzantine segment Divide the desired length of the chain by the Segment Width to determine the number of segments the chain will require Then multiply the number of segments you need by the number of Rings per Segment to determine how many rings you ll need in each size This means that the figure is calculated or estimated Although expected to be accurate these figures have not yet been tested so results are not guaranteed 9 Making the Watch Ring Size URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS Making the Byzantine Segments There are two different ways to make your byzantine segments Method A is the same way you d weave a continuous length of byzantine chain It s a bit slower for segments but it s familiar and you might prefer to make them in the way that s already comfortable Method B can only be used for weaving individual byzantine segments as you ll be making here It s faster for making segments but it s probably unfamiliar and so will be slower at first Read both and choose the method you prefer before going on to Step 2 Method A Make your byzantine segments from 18g 3 5mm rings but use 18g 5 0mm rings for the center In other words begin the segment with a 2 2 2 chain of 18g 3 5mm rings Fold back the rings as usual then lock them in place with two of the 18g 5 0mm rings Use 18g 3 5mm rings to complete the segment URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 2

Byzantine Watch Kit Kit Contents 18g 3 5mm sterling rings 18g 5 0mm sterling rings 20g 2 0mm sterling rings sterling box clasp handmade watchhead w pins optional spring bar tool Tools Required 2 pair smooth jawed jewelers pliers Experience Required Byzantine This Apprentice Project Kit contains everything needed to complete the project but this kit does not teach the weave listed as Experience Required If you don t know the required weave you will not be able to complete this kit until you ve learned it You ll find a kit that teaches it among our Beginning Weaves We hope you enjoy this project kit and will look for others on our website urbanmaille com 1 URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS Byzantine Watch Kit Use and Limitations It s often difficult to know exactly what rights are granted with instruction of any sort so we include this section in an effort to clarify our policies Our Weave Kits Beginning Intermediate and Advanced teach chainmaille patterns many of them ancient that are not of our own design and reside in the public domain If you learn a weave from one of our Weave Kits and then wish to teach that weave you have every right to do so as long as you use your own photos or renderings and your own wording in the instructions Using our instructions even if you retype them and change some of the words is a violation of copyright and other intellectual property rights Some of our Project Kits Apprentice Journeyman and Master are simple variations of standard weaves and the same rules apply as described above Those marked as Urban Maille Exclusives however are our own copyrighted designs and do not reside in the public domain If you have purchased a kit you are granted the right to make and sell the piece as many times as you like but we reserve the right to teach those designs ourselves Because they are unique designs and we don t grant permission to teach them sharing or publishing ring sizes and other particulars privately or publicly or teaching them even with photos or renderings and instructions you ve prepared yourself is expressly prohibited and constitutes a violation of Urban Maille s copyrights and other intellectual property rights This kit is an Urban Maille Exclusive URBAN MAILLE CHAINWORKS 10

Copyright 2003 08 Urban Maille Inc